Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash Trek, Santa Cruz, Huascaran, Mateo, Pisco, Huaraz, Peru

CLIMBING ALPAMAYO “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World’

Overview:

This awesome mountain is located in the Andes mountain range just north from the Peruvian capital in the western branch of the Cordillera Blanca within the Huascaran National Park. Alpamayo reaches an altitude of 5,947 meters above sea level and is considered one of the most stunning peaks in the Peruvian Andes ever since it was declared "The most beautiful mountain in the world" by Alpinismus magazine during the World Scenic Photo Competition held in Munich - Germany in 1966.

• Duration: 6 days/ 5 nights
• Maximum height: 5947 m
• Availability: June-August
• Difficulty: Difficult

FYI:

• The itinerary is a model to follow, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in government regulations or another force majeure may cause this program to vary.

Itinerary:

Day 01: Huaraz - Cashapampa - Llamacorral 3760 masl
Our expedition begins from the city of Huaraz where we set off in private transportation for about 3 hours until we reach the district of Cashapampa at 2,900 masl. From here, we will hike approximately 4 to 5 hours through the Santa Cruz Valley where the hiking trail is marked by the vegetation growing alongside the path until we arrive at Llamacorral campsite located at 3,760 masl. Here we will be able to set up our tents, cook a hot meal and enjoy the rest of the afternoon before getting a good night’s rest for tomorrow’s activities.

Day 02: Llamacorral - Alpamayo Base Camp 4300 masl
The day begins with a good breakfast, then we will pack our tents and gear to continue our hike approximately 5 hours, following the same trail through the Santa Cruz Valley. During the hike, we will pass by two lakes called Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha. The first lake was almost destroyed by a landslide but the second lake gives the valley an added beauty and serenity. The Santa Cruz hiking trail will then take us to a right turn through a zigzagged path called Arhuaycocha until we reach the famous Alpamayo base camp at 4,300 masl.

Day 03: Base Camp - Moraine Camp 4900 masl - High Camp 5450masl
After breakfast we will pack our climbing gear and proceed to make our way through the moraine, this will require navigating over large rocks and polished granite along the way until we arrive at the glacier. Here we will take accessible ramps for easier ascent and after passing some crevasses we will arrive at high camp, at the foot of the well-known face of the Alpamayo where we set up camp. The day’s activities take approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Day 04: High camp - Summit Alpamayo 5947 masl
Off to an early start, we will gear up and head out around 1:00 a.m. The ascent on the wall has an incline of 55° to 75° and a height 400 meters. We will descend and return to high camp at around 11 a.m. The day’s activities take approximately 9 to 12 hours. Optional: descend and return to Alpamayo base camp.

Day 05: High Camp – Alpamayo Base Camp
After packing our gear and supplies we will descend approximately 4 to 5 hours without any hurry back to Alpamayo base camp. Here we can enjoy the remainder of the day to recharge energies and get a good night´s sleep before preparing our backpacks for the return back to Huaraz.

Day 06: Alpamayo Base Camp - Cashapampa - Huaraz
After breakfast, we will hike about 4 to 5 hours through the entire Santa Cruz Valley until we reach Cashapampa. Here a mode private transport will be waiting to drive us back 3 hours to the city Huaraz.

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Recommendations:

• If you want to do this type of climbing, it is necessary to acclimatize previously for several days and be in good physical/technical conditions.

It includes:

• Private transportation (according to the program)
• Certified and qualified UIAGM/AGMP Mountain Guide (2 clients maximum per guide)
• Assistant guide (UIAGM candidate), with more than 2 clients
• Specialized high mountain cook
• Kitchen assistant (large groups)
• Kitchen utensils
• Food during the program (breakfast, lunch, and dinner)
• Porter support (high mountain assistant, who transfers collective equipment to the high camps).
• Mules and muleteers support (who transfer the camp equipment and personal equipment to the base camp).
• Collective first aid kit
• Collective technical equipment
• Camping equipment (kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chairs)
• Huascarán National Park entrance ticket/permits
• Camping tents (2 to 3 people per tent)

Not included:

• Bus or plane ticket reservation for transfer
• Hotel reservation for accommodation in Huaraz
• Acclimatization program before climbing
• Breakfast on the first day and dinner on the last day
• Food and drinks during the stay in Huaraz
• Alcoholic beverages
• Personal climbing equipment (harness, mountain pants, mountain jacket (Gore-Tex), mountain shoes or mixed shoes, mats, appropriate clothing, personal medication, sleeping bag, backpack, crampons, ice ax, sunglasses, etc.)
• Additional tours
• Sleeping bag (approximately -15 ° C to -20 ° C)
• Evacuation, medical and rescue costs
• Laundry service
• Personal toiletries
• Mattress
• Tips to staff
• Additional expenses not specified in this travel program

Additional Service:

• If you do not have the above-mentioned equipment, you have the option to rent it.
• If you want to have any additional service, do not hesitate to ask.

What to bring:

• Personal First Aid Kit
• Climbing boots (compatible for crampons)
• Hiking shoes (gore-tex)
• Socks (we recommend bringing changes, for climbing and hiking boots)
• Spats
• Short and long-sleeved cotton shirts or T-shirts
• Lightweight trousers
• Regular and long underwear (over 4,000 masl)
• Light hat and wool cap.
• Water bottle
• Lightweight gloves
• Small backpack
• Strong canvas duffle bag
• Sunglasses (100% UV, dark), sunscreen, lip balm
• Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb.
• Climbing helmet
• Climbing harness
• Pair of climbing karabiners
• Lines for Prusik
• ATC guide
• Technical ice axes
• Sleeping bag (approximately -15 ° C to -20 ° C)
• Trekking poles
• Camera (optional)
• Food-to-go, Assorted cookies (sweet and salty), dried fruits, candies, etc.

Prices & Dates:

• This program is designed exclusively for private groups in order to provide you a better experience. We have local certified guides and support team at your disposal. If you have any questions regarding our packages and pricing options please feel free to contact us.

Note

• Receive a special discount for groups of more than 5 participants.
• Additional information is available upon request at the time of booking.