Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash Trek, Santa Cruz, Huascaran, Mateo, Pisco, Huaraz, Peru

CLIMBING NEVADO ARTESONRAJU (Parón)

Overview:

This pictures mountain is located in the Peruvian Andes in the Cordillera Blanca between the Santa Cruz valley to the north and the Parón valley to the south. It is one of the mountains considered as the Paramount logo, for the first time it was drawn by W.W. Hodkinson, a kind of doodle based on Ben Lomond Mountain in Utah. However, over the years, the search for perfection in the logo led them to use another model of the mountain. This is how they came to register the Artesonraju in Ancash, Peru; making it their official logo since December 31, 1953. From there on, the Peruvian snow-capped mountain is the protagonist of the logo.

• Duration: 4 days/ 3 nights
• Maximum height: 6025 m
• Availability: June-August
• Difficulty: Difficult

FYI:

• The itinerary is a model to follow, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in government regulations or another force majeure may cause this program to vary.

Itinerary:

Day 01: Huaraz - Caraz - Parón Valley - Base camp 4500 masl
Our expedition begins from the city of Huaraz where we set off in private transportation for about 4 hours passing by the different towns in the Callejón de Huaylas: Carhuaz, Yungay, and Caraz. From Caraz we will take a detour to the Parón valley until we reach lake Parón at 4200m. From here we will begin walking approximately 4 to 5 hours along the edge of the lake until we reach Base Camp.

Day 02: Base Camp - High Camp 5200 masl
We will start our approach from base camp, navigate through the edge of the moraine via a zigzagged path then we continue through a wide glacier for approximately 4 to 5 hours until we reach the high camp of Artesonraju 5200 masl.

Day 03: High camp - Summit Snowy Artesonraju 6025 masl - High camp
We will depart from high camp at around midnight and walk through the glacier until we reach a bergschrund. Here, we will ascend the 950m wall with 45° to 55° and sometimes exceeding 70° degrees of inclination until we- reach the summit of the Nevado Artesonraju. Then we will descend with several rappels until we reach the high camp. 9 to 12 hours approx.

Day 04: High Camp - Huaraz
After breakfast, we will hike 3 to 4 hours by the same route of ascent until we reach the banks of Paron lake. Here a mode private transport will be waiting to drive us 3 hours back to the city of Huaraz.

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Recommendations:

• If you want to do this type of climbing, it is necessary to acclimatize previously for several days and be in good physical/technical conditions.

It includes:

• Private transportation (according to the program)
• Certified and qualified UIAGM/AGMP Mountain Guide (2 clients maximum per guide)
• Assistant guide (UIAGM candidate), with more than 2 clients
• Specialized high mountain cook
• Kitchen assistant (large groups)
• Kitchen utensils
• Food during the program (breakfast, lunch, and dinner)
• Porter support (high mountain assistant, who transfers collective equipment to the high camps).
• Collective first aid kit
• Collective technical equipment
• Camping equipment (kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chairs)
• Huascarán National Park entrance ticket/permits
• Camping tents (2 to 3 people per tent)

Not included:

• Bus or plane ticket reservation for transfer
• Hotel reservation for accommodation in Huaraz
• Acclimatization program before climbing
• Breakfast on the first day and dinner on the last day
• Food and drinks during the stay in Huaraz
• Alcoholic beverages
• Personal climbing equipment (harness, mountain pants, mountain jacket (Gore-Tex), mountain shoes or mixed shoes, mats, appropriate clothing, personal medication, sleeping bag, backpack, crampons, ice ax, sunglasses, etc.).
• Additional tours
• Sleeping bag (approximately -15 ° C to -20 ° C)
• Evacuation, medical and rescue costs
• Telephone calls, access to internet booths and other additional expenses
• Laundry service
• Personal toiletries
• Mattress
• Tips to staff
• Additional expenses not specified in this travel program

Additional Service:

• If you do not have the above-mentioned equipment, you have the option to rent it.
• If you wish to have any additional service, do not hesitate to ask.

What to bring:

• Personal First Aid Kit
• Climbing boots (compatible for crampons)
• Hiking shoes (Gore-Tex)
• Socks (we recommend bringing changes, for climbing and hiking boots)
• Spats
• Short and long-sleeved cotton shirts or T-shirts
• Lightweight trousers
• Regular and long underwear (over 4,000 masl)
• Light hat and wool cap.
• Water bottle
• Lightweight gloves
• Small backpack
• Strong canvas duffle bag
• Sunglasses (100% UV, dark), sunscreen, lip balm
• Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb.
• Climbing helmet
• Climbing harness
• Pair of climbing karabiners
• Lines for Prusik
• ATC guide
• Technical ice axes
• Sleeping bag (approximately -15 ° C to -20 ° C)
• Trekking poles
• Camera (optional)
• Marching Foods Assorted cookies (sweet and salty), dried fruits, candies, etc.

Prices & Dates:

• This program is designed exclusively for private groups in order to provide you a better experience. We have local certified guides and support team at your disposal. If you have any questions regarding our packages and pricing options please feel free to contact us.

Note

• Receive a special discount for groups of more than 5 participants.
• Additional information is available upon request at the time of booking.